The McGee Creek Natural Scenic Recreation Area (NSRA) in southeastern Oklahoma is a very convenient place for us to hike, since it is not far from where we live. The NSRA is located near Atoka and Antlers in Oklahoma, and it offers backpacking, hiking, and equestrian camping opportunities with many miles of trails.

I am working on developing a trail guide for the area, since little information is available. The brief trail map offered at the trail head is generally accurate as far as the trail location, but many of the distances are incorrect. I use a GPS data logger as I hike to correctly measure position and distance along each trail.

When doing a short hike with our kids back in December, the map at the permit station indicated that two new trails had been opened. We were anxious to try them out, and this holiday gave us that chance.

For this hike, it was just Jana and I with a light day pack. Temperatures was 45 to 60 degrees, and it was partly cloudy, which provided very good hiking conditions. From the trail head, we hiked north and then took the South Rim trail.

Before we reached Box Spring camp (near the junction of South Rim and Bog Spring trails), a new trail left toward the east. I will call it the Bog Spring trail, although no name is listed at the permit station. This trail provides much easier access to the east side of the McGee Creek NSRA, which had been a long hike north and around to a couple of camp areas on the southeast corner in the NSRA. The Bog Spring trail was in good condition, and allowed us to hike side by side for much of the trail. This new trail connects to roughly the middle point of the Hog Camp trail, near the equestrian camp E2.

We turned north onto the Hog Camp trail and followed it up until it came to a junction with the Hunters Cabin trail and short trail to the east which went to the east boundary. The boundary trail now is also open around the northeast corner of the NSRA boundary. We did not take this boundary trail, but it looks to be in decent shape and well blazed.

From the junction, we followed the Hunters Cabin trail toward the northwest. You will notice on our map a very small spur trail we took near the middle of the Hunters Cabin trail. This used to go to an old hunting cabin and outhouse. However, the cabin and outhouse have been demolished and removed. The area is now cleared, with two picnic tables and charcoal grills. I wonder if there are plans to put another equestrian camp here, but no information was available. The Hunters Cabin trail was in good shape, mostly double track, and nice hiking.

We continued on the Hunters Cabin trail until we came to the junction with the Coon’s Way Trail. This trail leads to the northern boundary of the NSRA, and it also connects with another trail called Wolf Creek as indicated on the state of Oklahoma map. However, as we hiked the Coon’s Way trail, there were no indications of the Wolf Creek trail, so it apparently is no longer marked or used. After reaching the northern boundary, we returned south on Coon’s Way, back to the Hunters Cabin trail and continued west on it.

Hunters Cabin connects to the northern end of the South Rim trail, and there are good backpacking camping areas there as well (B5 on the state map). We took the South Rim trail south to return us back to the parking area. The South Rim trail is also in good shape, with easy double track hiking through pine trees. The trees at the edge of the Bugaboo Canyon were too tall to see much from the overlook, but it was still very enjoyable as we made good time along the trail.

There had been some rain the previous week, so most of the creeks and streams were flowing, which is somewhat unusual for this area. Water sources are often limited to the lake on the west side of the NSRA, the Box Spring near Box Spring Camp, or the permit station at the trail head.

Our overall hike was 12 miles. We saw a few horses near the trail head, but once on the trail, we did not see anyone at all. Another great feature of the NSRA is the wooded environment. The tree cover helps to keep the hot sun off of you when hiking in the warmer months. The NSRA also does not have large elevation changes, so hiking with your family or kids would be an option as well.

Click on either graphic below to see a larger overview of our route on either a topographical or satellite map.

Happy Trails,

Shawn

On this backpacking trip, Jana and I wanted to see what kind of good mileage we could make, now that we had reduced our pack weights greatly. We were both in GoLite Jam2 packs, and using 2 trekking poles each. Shawn’s pack was at 16.5 lbs total – with gear and food for 4 meals. Jana’s pack was at 11 lbs. These were drastic weight reductions since our summer 2008 trip, where we both had packs over 20 lbs – actually closer to 30 lbs.

We carried 1.5 L of water each, since we had to hike over 7 miles to a campsite near the lake. Jana had newer trekking poles, fewer than 9 oz for the pair. Shawn’s poles are cheaper, and should probably be replaced, weighing in at over 22 oz for the pair. We did receive the new Thermarest Neo we ordered for Jana just before the trip. This new inflatable sleeping pad can inflate to over 2 inches, but only weighs 9 oz for the short (4 ft) version. This is only slightly more than our closed cell pads, which are just over 8 oz for a trimmed 4 ft length, but the closed cell pads are much harder to sleep on.

We took the GPS in order to track our distance very carefully. We are planning 3 nights on the Ouachita Trail in May. We intend to cover over 50 miles on that trip, so knowing our hiking speed is necessary to plan correctly.

April 9, 2009

We left the parking lot at 3:45PM, which is at 835 feet elevation. We are trying a new routine where we hike for 45 minutes or so, then take a 10 to 15 minute break. During the break, we remove our shoes and sometimes our socks to help keep our feet from getting too sweaty or damp. Damp socks and feet will cause blisters much more quickly. We used a 2 layer cool mesh sock that should allow rubbing within the sock layers rather than between our skin and the sock. So far, so good – no blisters that evening.

We hiked the Little Bugaboo trail, the South Rim trail, the North Rim trail, and finally the North Fork trail. The North Rim trail ran along a ridge on the north side of Wildcat Canyon. The elevation was around 950 to 1050 ft for most of the North Rim trail.

As we hiked west, we saw clouds building in front of us, but they ended up moving north and we did not get any rain or close lightning. Also, we saw and smelled significant smoke from the south. We were concerned about where the grass fire was located, but it seemed to be several miles south. Since we were on the north side of the lake, we felt like we were pretty well protected from it moving our way. We decided that camping close to the lake shore, but still on the north side of the lake, would provide a good buffer from the fire possibly moving our way. However, we did notice at our dinner stop that when we unrolled the tops of our packs, some small amount of ash had accumulated in the rolled top. The weather forecast called for a wind shift bringing winds more out of the north and west, rather than the south, which would push the smoke away from us. It did stay quite windy both days, with gusts to around 30 mph. Most of the hike was in tree cover, so the wind did not blow directly against us too hard. Hearing the wind through the pine tree tops was a wonderful sound.

We stopped along the North Rim trail for dinner. We heated 2 cups of water on the aluminum can stove and made freeze dried Chicken Teriyaki. Our snack earlier that afternoon had been cereal and trail mix.

Our total mileage of 7.6 miles over 4.25 hours that first afternoon gave us an overall speed of 1.8 mph. Once we left the north fork trail, we had to hike off trail through a lot of thick brush and briars and this hurt our time quite a bit. This leg of the trip broke out to be about 1 hour and 10 minutes of rest and just over 3 hours of hiking.

We did not have to camp at C2, but we put that on our permit, so we thought it would be best to camp very close to C2. On future trips, there were some considerably nicer campsites near the North Fork trail that could be used. It was dark by the time we found a place setup our tarp tent, but we were able to find a suitable tent area, although it was more sloped that we would like.

We filled a 1L bottle with water at the lake shore and added a Katadyn MicroPur MP 1 tablet. This is a new water treatment method that we are trying. One tablet will treat 1L, and the tablets are extremely lightweight. They release chlorine dioxide, which is supposed to be effective against viruses, bacteria, giardia, and cryptosporidium. The only down side is that you must wait 4 hours for them to be completely effective. In our situation, we just added it before we went to bed and let it sit all night.

Jana used the new Thermarest Neo sleeping pad, while I was still on a shortened closed cell foam pad. We used the silk liners as a bag for each of us, and then covered those with the down quilt. Temperatures got down to about 45 degrees that night, and we stayed pretty warm. The wind did pick up and start gusting, so from time to time it would blow up under the quilt. Had it gotten much colder, we would have simply put on socks or cinched up the foot area of the quilt. Jana used foam ear plugs, which really seemed to block out the loud frogs and other noises. Shawn thinks he will try that next time as well.

April 10, 2009

We woke up around 6:30, and thought about leaving camp by 7 or 7:30. We got dressed and heated water for coffee. We had some liquid instant coffee concentrate to try that morning. It was easy enough, but did not have great flavor. We plan to look at other options for our morning java juice. After coffee, we heated water to make oatmeal with raisins. After eating breakfast, we started packing our sleeping gear, other gear, and then the tent. We also needed to fill up our water bottles and treat water. Since we were going to be drinking it soon, we used our Polar Pure water treatment on water collected from the lake. Polar Pure is an iodine based product that only takes 20 minutes to work. The negatives on it are some iodine taste and a heavy bottle for the product itself. We were finally ready to start hiking around 7:55 AM. We talked about ways to improve this departure time. Possible options could be to eat a dry or non-heated breakfast or to just eat on the trail at our first rest break.

We wanted to get some extra miles in the second day. So, instead of coming back to the ranger station following the same route we took the evening before, we turned off of the Little Bugaboo trail onto the West Branch trail. We hiked the West Branch trail hoping to find another backpack campsite, but we ran out of time before we made it that far. We turned back, so that we could get some tasty Mexican food in Atoka

When hiking in the previous night, we saw a concrete structure that appeared to be the location of the spring near Box Spring camp. As we came back through this next morning, we stopped and looked at it more closely. It was a spring, and although it was flowing very slowly, it did have a concrete cistern like structure that contained 10 or more gallons of water – just an estimate. We filled another 1L bottle, and the water was very clear. We treated this with Polar Pure and then added some sugar free flavoring to mask the iodine taste.

This day’s hike covered 9.23 miles in 4.25 hours for an overall average of 2.17 mph. Combined with the day before; our overall trip average was right at 2 mph. In terrain with more elevation gain and loss, we would likely drop below 2 mph. For our May trip, we need to cover about 16 miles per day. If we hike 12 hours per day (includes taking rest breaks), then even at 1.5 mph we can cover the necessary distance.

This trip, although short, was a great test run for some new gear. It also gave us a good idea of a daily mileage rate. After returning home, we were tired, but not sore or hurting – that’s a successful backpacking trip!

Happy trails…

- Shawn

Appendix

We really put the trekking poles to use on this trip, and as we hiked, I thought a lot about how best to use them. One school of thought is to not use them at all if you pack weight is light enough. I like using the poles to push myself along, taking some of the work off of my legs and knees. Trekking pole videos I have seen show moving the pole every time the opposite foot moves. I have tried this, and it seems to add a lot of work. A good way of using the poles seemed to be to move the poles on every other step, and push slightly as the pole tip gets behind me. This seems to help propel me along as I hike. If my arms are more tired, then I can simply push less. When going uphill, I place the pole tip a little further in from of me, and push down on the pole to help pull me up the hill. When hiking downhill, I can still plant the pole tip further in front of me, but it can help ‘catch’ my body weight as I am descending. This takes a lot of abuse off of my knees. When hiking, there can be a tendency to watch the ground right in front as I hike. But in doing so, I miss a lot of great scenery. The reason we do this is to prevent us from tripping on the rocks, logs, etc. on the path. However, when using trekking poles, if I do trip, I don’t fall because the poles are helping to keep my balance. Knowing this allows me to keep my eyes looking out, further down the trail. It helps me to look more side to side and see wildlife and other wonderful things in the forest. Trekking poles are just an aid to help make the journey more enjoyable and pleasant.